John Galliano makes the wait for his return worthwhile, presenting a jaw dropping debut collection for Maison Margiela
For me genuinely, a few years ago, I feel Galliano was merely in the wrong place at the wrong time. Saying things granted he shouldn’t have ever thought or said, mixed with a copious amount of wine,… in a time where people are literally vicious and salivating for social media attention, and scandal.
Thankfully last week the fashion world was reminded not, of that incident that has literally silenced the designer for the past several years but for the magnificent creative and beautifully intricate mind he still beholds. Opening a new chapter of his already extremely accomplished repertoire and presenting himself and the ultra house of Maison Martin Margiela in a way we never thought could.
Since news hit the stands of the power coupling between Galliano and Maison Martin Margiela, the fashion world has been in a frenzy of anticipation and speculation.
Many debated whether the match of one of the most high profile, flamboyant and theatrical designers with the famously minimalist and highly anonymous Maison Martin Margiela was wise?
Last week John Galliano put those questions to bed. Presenting a debut collection of spring couture for MMM in what can only be described as one of the most exciting changes of pace in a fashion house, one has seen.
Set in front of an extremely intimate and select single front row, of only 100 guests, which included Anna Wintour, Lanvin’s Alber Elbaz, Kate Moss and Christopher Bailey among others, Galliano showed just how vast his reach and adaptability really is.
Pinned trains of toile, followed behind prancing models,who walked the catwalk in block heels to a tongue and cheek rendition of “Hey Big Spender”. Mirrored embellishments, gold gilding, ragged knots, tights with ripped knees, perspex pockets, asymmetrical hems, and a signature masked model; paid homage to MMM’s ‘Artisanal’ aesthetic. Whilst a stand out series of crimson red gowns, and a magnificently tailored black suit showed Galliano’s expertise for couture. Demonstrating that this collection was just as much about business and putting on a show as it was an introduction to the power of things to come.
Grotesque, beautiful, concise, opulent, on brand, and dripping in Gallianoism, all is where it should be in Margiela’s house, and it seems the world of the new designer himself. Sneaking a final ‘blink and you missed it’ bow at the end dressed in Margiela’s signature white lab coat.
Speaking on Style.com an eloquent Tim Blanks reviews “It seems odd that anyone could ever have doubted that John Galliano wasn’t a dream choice for Margiela. This most arcane of fashion houses called for an alchemist as much as a designer, and with Galliano, that’s exactly what it got.”
Words by Tracy Kawalik
Photo via Style.Com